Gen. Z and Korean Stars drove the most value for this season's Fashion Weeks
Fashion Weeks across the globe for AW22 showed an overall decrease in visibility of 13.6% compared to SS22 shows. Except for Paris, all preceding Fashion Weeks lacked growth due to drops across the board in posts, influencers, and engagement.
With Paris as the exception, seeing a 7% growth in Earned Media Value (EMV), most of PFW’s AW22 development is mainly due to increased interaction with Mega influencers. Compared to SS22, this season’s show saw growth in Mega influencer posts and brand collaborations, helping to generate more impact than before. These results highlighted the importance of influencer and celebrity casting – as EMV growth is heavily dependent on collaboration with key talent this season.
Historically, Paris Fashion Week generates the most visibility due to its prestigious line-up of top brands presenting. As a result, it's no surprise that eight out of the top ten ranked brands in EMV for AW22 Fashion Weeks showcased their latest collections in Paris.
Interestingly, New York Fashion Week experienced the most considerable decrease in visibility (-66%) compared to its SS22 showing. Even with the success of Michael Kors and Coach's collections this season, the overall decrease of high-profile talents in attendance and last-minute cancellations from notable brands like Tom Ford impacted NYFW's EMV the most.
On the other hand, Milan Fashion Week had the second-best performance, after Paris, even with a decrease (-11%) in EMV. Surprisingly, MFW was the only Fashion Week to experience growth in both talents and posts, with both Prada and Gucci breaking into the top-ten highest-ranked brands by EMV this season.
With most of the impacts on increasing or decreasing EMV attributed to growth in talents and celebrity collaborations, it is clear that talent presence had a significant effect on the overall visibility for this season's Fashion Weeks. Across the board, brands that generated the most considerable amounts of EMV recruited key talents from these demographics the most: Generation Z and Korean stars.
As showcased during PFW, Korean influencers have become increasingly popular in the luxury fashion industry due to the overwhelming success of the K-Pop industry in recent years and the growth of luxury fashion and beauty markets in Korea and Asia at large. Brands such as Dior, Louis Vuitton and Chanel have embraced the development of the K-Pop industry by teaming up with Korean celebrities in the past year.
The luxury fashion industry has similarly started to embrace Gen-Z celebrities in their talent casting. Young social media influencers such as Charlie D’Amelio and Emma Chamberlain played prominent roles in promoting Prada and Louis Vuitton this season. Gen-Z stars were also major fixtures at both NYFW and LFW. The industry’s move towards appealing to younger consumers to keep luxury brands relevant and exciting to Gen-Z is undoubtedly growing.
While almost all Fashion Weeks saw a decrease in EMV evolution from SS22, mega influencers interacting with brands increased. Throughout the Covid-19 pandemic, many Fashion Week shows were held almost exclusively online.
As a result of the increased accessibility of attendance for digital shows the year prior, macro and micro-influencers had the opportunity to engage more with brands during Fashion Week. Consequently, each Fashion Week saw increased posts and EMV.
With the Covid-19 pandemic beginning to wane, however, the 2022 AW shows marked the return of invite-only, physical runways, and an emphasis on exclusivity. The return to Fashion Week tradition has already impacted EMV growth, as seen by the drops between AW22 and SS22. Nevertheless, with an increase in brand-celebrity collaborations across AW22 Fashion Weeks, we can likely expect the next Fashion Week season to see continued growth in these types of partnerships.
This season’s FW22 Fashion Weeks provided an insightful look into the future of the luxury fashion industry. Trends point towards a return in show exclusivity to appeal to global celebrities rather than smaller influencers and continued collaborations with Korean and Gen.-Z celebrities as the fresh faces of luxury brands. We can expect the increased emphasis to appeal to the younger generation of customers, the primary consumers of social media and k-pop culture in future seasons.
As the ultimate finale of fashion season, Paris played host to the world’s leading luxury labels, attracting crucial names in the industry and A-list stars and influencers alike – but who came out on top?