October 14, 2022

LFW Womenswear S/S23

In a Fashion Week like no other; London still delivered

What you will learn from this article:

London Fashion Week Story

TOP 3 Brands in EMV Ranking

Brands's Key Insights

The APAC market Insights of LFW

TOP 5 Influencers in EMV Ranking

Influencers' Key Insights

London Story

Following the passing of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II,London Fashion Week was plunged into a somber mood.S/S23 was due to be rife with buzz, but following the announcement, marquee names from Burberry to guest-de-signer Raf Simons announced they were to postpone their shows as a mark of respect. Other designers were advised by the British Fashion Council to cancel parties and reschedule shows that fell on the day of the Queen’s funeral.

JW Anderson's SS23 Look in LFW

As a result, LFW was back-to-back, filled with outings from young designers and a handful of city-wide comebacks.JW Anderson was a key name to remain on schedule, explaining that for many London designers, this was an event that was vital to the survival of their business. Elsewhere, designers paid their respects in their own way; at JWAnderson, an homage t-shirt; at Halpern, a regal opening look showcased by the sound of silence; at Nensi Dojaka, models carried miniature sprigs of Lily of the Valley, the Queen’s favourite flower. Richard Quinn, the first designer to ever have The Queen present at his show, showcased a collection with an interlude of all-black looks. It was apoignant moment to end the last day of shows.

There was newness at Simone Rocha, who debuted her first foray into menswear; and a triumphant return from Christopher Kane, whose show came hosted at Camden’s Roundhouse. Additionally, plenty of London’s renowned new talent, from LVMH Winner SS Daley to the much anticipated debut of Chopova Lowena. Amidst difficult circumstances, London continued to shine.

Karla Otto and Lefty team up to reveal the data, insights, and key influencers that made an impact at this season’s edition of London Fashion Week.

EMV Evolution: SS23 VS AW22

London remains stable in the face of adversity

Despite last-minute cancellations and rescheduling, London Fashion Week still managed to create significant visibility – on par with last season’s shows. With big-name brands missing from the schedule last AW22 season due to Covid-19 concerns, London’s big comeback fell shorter than expected due to the passing of Her MajestyThe Queen. While Earned Media Value(EMV), the number of influencers, and posts slightly decreased comparing season-over-season, overall engagement rose by 5%, with posts from this season resonating more with audiences than the last. Key learnings from this season’s show include:

1) that even in the face of adversity, London Fashion Week can still deliver;

2) that there is a growing appetite for fashion content;  

3) that London remains a key player in the global fashion landscape.

Moving forward, we expect to see more big-name brands return to the schedule next season and for overall EMV to increase as a result.

TOP 3 Brands in EMV Ranking

Download the TOP 30 Brands Ranking

Brands's Key Insights

Nensi Dojaka climbs the ladder, capturing the essence of London’s changing aesthetic codes.

With London’s headline acts missing from the schedule, younger brands and new-gen names were presented with an opportunity to capture greater media attention. Notably, Nensi Dojaka, a previous LVMH winner and former Fashion East alumni, whose second solo runway outing was a triumph - gaining +89% growth on her seasonal EMV ranking at $1.6M EMV. Dojaka’s collection was pipped to the post by London hero JW Anderson, whose show gene- rated $1.9M EMV. Both shows had one thing in common: the casting of @emrata within their shows. More on that later...

Elsewhere, brands such as Molly Goddard (+150%) and Erdem (+43%) saw strong seasonal growth, while Richard Quinn, last season’s #1, suffered a -81% decrease in EMV. This is largely due to the rescheduling of his show landing around a similar time to the traditional departure to Milan on Tuesday, resulting in several missing influential profiles in attendance.

Poster Girl remains in the Top 10 this season after a surprise rise to the top for Fall. Poster Girl, Nensi Dojaka, and David Koma have a strong influencer following and subversive, sexy aesthetic that resonates with their Gen-Z fans and FROW.

Aesthetically, the top 10 London brands display three unique stories: the historic, romantic leanings of Erdem, Simone Rocha, Richard Quinn, and Dilara Findikoglu; the racy, lingerie-clad designers of Dojaka, Poster Girl, and David Koma, all the way to the abstract, humourled vision of Christopher Kane and JW Anderson. London’s distinct tribes remain a testament to the creativity and visual currency of the city and its tropes of loyal fans.

The APAC Perspective

LFW hosted 10 Chinese-led Fashion Brands, displaying the diversity of London’s talent

London Fashion Week’s most vibrant and innovative designers prevailed this season, even in the wake of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II’s passing.

This season reflected London’s diversity with several multicultural designers and brands on the roster. In particular, 10 Chinese-led fashion houses joined the schedule along homegrown talent. Yuhan Wang, Susan Fang, and Huishan Zhang are just a few rising who brought their unique perspectives to the forefront of LFW. Yuhan Wang’s “Beyond the Horizon” collection, inspired by female pilots, was a beautiful example of independence and bravery.

Chinese - Canadian designer and 2019 LVMH prize candidate Susan Fang’s “Air·Light” collection was a stunning exploration of peace and love. And up-and-coming designer Huishan Zhang’s modern East- meets-West aesthetic turned heads.

Across shows, UK-based designer JW Anderson was the clear victor, ranking #1 on Instagram and winning over Chinese audiences with the highest Earned Media Value (EMV) on Weibo. Dilara Findikoglu ranked #3 in EMV, even though the brand has not yet officially entered the Chinese market. The same applied to Richard Quinn, who showed up in the top 5 highest EMV grossing brands on Weibo despite its lack of presence in China, primarily due to the all- black series paying homage to The Queen

TOP 5 Influencers in EMV Ranking

Download the TOP 10 Influencers Ranking

Influencers' Key Insights

Press prove a vital component in LFW’s media matrix

With several media and influencers cancelling their trips to the city, London Fashion Week had a more purist approach, with attention firmly fixed on the collections.
As a result, press drove the majority of the EMV, with publications like @voguemagazine generating the second-highest EMV at $654K. The significant amount of visibility created by the press in London underscores that when it comes to Fashion Week, the media still has a substantial amount of influence, even on social media.
While press coverage drove most of the EMV for LFW, the overall winner in generating visibility was @emrata. The actress, influencer, and model made a surprise appearance on the runway walking for Nensi Dojaka and JW Anderson, creating social media buzz.

Similarly, ex-Victoria’s Secret Angel @izabelgoulart also made a surprise appearance on the runway for David Koma, producing $132K EMV. These two appearances generated social media attention, highlighting celebrities’ impact on creating visibility for fashion weeks. Though press coverage is still essential in driving awareness and interest, it is clear that KOLs play a significant role in visibility and engagement.

In terms of impact, Mega influencers significantly out weighed other tiers, with less than 20% of influencers generating 77.8% of LFW’s total EMV.

Influencer Size and EMV

Micro influencers (10K-100K followers) were the most largest tier of influencers at LFW, followed by more equal proportions among Macro, Top, and Mega influencers.

Influencer Size and Number of Influencers

Although almost half of all KOLs in attendance at LFW shows were based in the UK or US, London’s diversity still shone through with one of the largest ranges of nationalities in attendance.

Influencer by Region

This season, models and the press were central to generating visibility online across shows. Meanwhile, drag queens made a surprise appearance as a growing and critical segment of attendees at fashion week shows.

Category of Influencers

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