October 14, 2022

PFW S/S 23 Womenswear

As the ultimate finale of fashion season, Paris played host to the world’s leading luxury labels, attracting crucial names in the industry and A-list stars and influencers alike – but who came out on top?

What you will learn from this article:

Milan Fashion Week Story

EMV Evolution: SS23 VS AW22

TOP 3 Brands in EMV Ranking

Brands's Key Insights

The APAC market Insights of MFW

TOP 5 Influencers in EMV Ranking

Influencers' Key Insights

Paris Fashion Week Story

The ultimate finale of the fanfare that is fashion season; Paris plays host to the world’s leading luxury labels, attracting not only key names in the industry but A-list stars and influencers alike. With Covid restrictions lifted from many international visitors, S/S23 felt bigger than ever before, culminating in a total earned media value (EMV) of $284M.

The city came alive with 106 on schedule shows and presentations, encompassing a ten-day marathon of style, viral fashion moments and parties. However, it wasn’t only the shows that were attracting attention. A plethora of celebrities and influencers were in town, resulting in an eruption of hysteria throughout Paris, with fans gathering outside venues waiting to catch a glimpse of their favourite celebrity, from Cher through to Zendaya. Kylie Jenner created a near constant mob outside the Ritz, while Kanye hit the headlines with his surprise show - but for all the wrong reasons. Throughout the week, a Tweet from Derek Blasberg summed up the ever-shifting symbiosis of influence and fashion:

“I’m sitting in traffic from the Balenciaga show, which was opened by Kanye and attended (to much fanfare) by his ex-sister-in-law Kylie Jenner, and wondering if there’s ever been a time when high fashion has ever so closely intertwined itself with Pop culture?”

At times, it felt as though their presence overshadowed the meaning of the event itself. But fashion is now a far bigger business than selling product alone; it’s about affiliation, alignment, and entertainment. That arrived in more ways than one. The influencer became the model, the model became the influencer, and all the meanwhile, the production became akin to the scale of theatre. After all, in the age of social media, the whole world’s a stage.

Karla Otto and Lefty reveal the data, insights, and influencers that made an impact at #SS23 Paris Fashion Week.

EMV Evolution: SS23 VS AW22

Paris Fashion Week is always a star-studded event, but this season was especially noteworthy due to the abundance of celebrities in attendance. From K-Pop idols to Hollywood A-listers, the front row was full of unforgettable faces. Star power helped generate $284 million in EMV, a +12% increase from A/W22. With Covid-19 no longer a threat to runway shows, brands were able to raise the bar further than the past three years. While outstanding runway shows such as Coperni’s or Dior’s­ helped boost this season’s EMV, the addition of major celebrities was the driving force behind this year’s success. Though there was a slight 2% decrease in influencers posting content at shows this season, the amount of EMV that celebrities’ generated more than made up for this loss.

Perhaps the most notable difference between S/S23 and AW22 was the level of social media activity. More specifically, the number of posts increased, leading to a significant 18% decrease in engagement rates. While this may seem counterintuitive at first glance, it’s essential to con- sider the larger context. The more an influencer posts content about one event, the more likely each post will decrease in engagement as audiences lose interest. Despite this decrease, Paris Fashion Week SS23 was a resounding success overall.

TOP 3 Brands in EMV Ranking

Download the TOP 10 Brands Here

Brands's Key Insights

Coperni Grows by +213% with the Most Viral Moment of S/S23

Paris continues to lead the way as the capital city of fashion. This is best showcased by the astonishing level of EMV its brands and attendees generated throughout the ten-day event. The top ten brands this season all boast media value in the tens of millions, not seen anywhere else across the season.

Household names from Chanel, Givenchy, and Louis­Vuitton­ continue to remain strong and steadfast, with significant global audiences, large production budgets, and an army of influencers, celebrities and press attention at their shows causing buzz. Dior maintains its allure at number one, with Saint­Laurent hot on their heels with a +44% seasonal growth.Saint Laurent’s growth can be part attributed to Rosé from the K-Pop band Blackpink generating significant EMV from the audience.

Some surprise contenders in the top ten pepper this season’s leaderboard including Acne­ Studios and Coperni. Coperni, for one, saw a +213% seasonal growth thanks to what’s considered to be the most viral moment in Paris. The young Parisian brand’s closing look was a spray-on dress by Fabrican, which was sprayed and fitted onto supermodel Bel- la Hadid in a scene that lasted 15 minutes. The result was a tsunami of media attention, with many proclaiming they had just witnessed ‘fashion history.’ Dig deeper into the data and you’ll see the majority of their EMV was split by influencers and traditional press, with Kylie Jenner and Bella Hadid gene- rating over $13M of their EMV with 4 posts between them.

Coperni leveraged the golden triangle of the power of performance; one of the most famous faces in fashion and one of the world’s most influential figures in the audience to the highest effect.

The APAC market Insights of PFW

Against the backdrop of recurring epidemics and travel restrictions, the challenge for luxury brands to remain relevant and communicate systematically across their global markets is growing – especially in the APAC region. As a result, repeat or spin-off runway shows in key markets are a vital tool for brands to connect with consumers.

As the spending power of the Chinese consumer increases, brands have jumped to cater towards this demographic. Prada­ have been at the forefront of this trend. Last year, the brand held a simultaneous show in both Shanghai and Milan, generating massive visibility in both markets. Other brands such as Dior, Louis­Vuitton, and Valentino have since followed similar strategy for S/S 23.

In tandem with Dior’s show in Paris and promotion on Wei- bo, Dior China engaged with local audiences by hosting a star-studded panel in sync with the runway. The event brought together Dior’s Chinese brand ambassadors, numerous bloggers and fashion editors to watch the show live, then share their thoughts with audiences on Chinese social networks.

Meanwhile, Louis Vuitton, the current most popular luxury brand in China, further personalized their global strategy. Just before the brand’s SS23 presentation in Paris, the Louis Vuitton China team repeated its SS23 menswear runway in Aranya, China’s most popular tourist destination. From the sandy beaches of Qinhuangdao, Louis Vuitton’s latest Men’s Collection expanded on the idea of a magnified playground and included several cultural events related to the Aranya community. The move helped solidify the brand’s commitment to its Chinese consumers and set Louis Vuitton up for success even before the debut of the SS23 Womenswear collection.

TOP 5 Influencers in EMV Ranking

Download the TOP 10 Influencers Here

Influencers' Key Insights

Though Mega influencers drove the highest amounts of EMV, the most prevalent type of KOLs at PFW were Micro influencers (10K-100K followers). This segment of influencers accounted for slightly less than half of all profiles that posted content relating to shows but only generated 2.6% of PFW’s total EMV.

Though PFW hosted an international crowd of celebrities and influencers, American and Korean KOLs were the most numerous. These high-powered celebrities hold brand ambassadorships with top fashion houses like Chanel or Valentino.

The top EMV-generating talents at PFW were musicians, followed by actors and influencers. As seen throughout other fashion weeks this season, Hip- Hop artists and K-Pop idols have played a large part on and off the runway, from walking in shows to becoming full-fledged brand ambassadors.

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