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Following the passing of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, London Fashion Week was plunged into a somber mood. S/S23 was due to be rife with buzz, but following the announcement, marquee names from Burberry to guest-designer Raf Simons announced they were to postpone their shows as a mark of respect. Other designers were advised by the British Fashion Council to cancel parties and reschedule shows that fell on the day of the Queen’s funeral.
As a result, LFW was back-to-back, filled with outings from young designers and a handful of city-wide comebacks. JW Anderson was a key name to remain on schedule, explaining that for many London designers, this was an event that was vital to the survival of their business. Elsewhere, designers paid their respects in their own way; at JW Anderson, an homage t-shirt; at Halpern, a regal opening look showcased by the sound of silence; at Nensi Dojaka, models carried miniature sprigs of Lily of the Valley, the Queen's favourite flower. Richard Quinn, the first designer to ever have The Queen present at his show, showcased a collection with an interlude of all-black looks. It was a poignant moment to end the last day of shows.
There was newness at Simone Rocha, who debuted her first foray into menswear; a triumphant return from Christopher Kane, whose show came hosted at Camden’s Roundhouse. Additionally, plenty of London’s renowned new talent, from LVMH Winner SS Daley to the much anticipated debut of Chopova Lowena. Amidst difficult circumstances, London continued to shine.
Karla Otto and Lefty team up to reveal the data, insights, and key influencers that made an impact at this season’s edition of London Fashion Week.